A car that drifts left or right usually needs an alignment, but it can also mean uneven tire pressure, a worn suspension component, or a dragging brake.
When your steering wheel is centered but the vehicle drifts to one side, your wheels are out of alignment with each other or with the vehicle's center line. The most common cause is a front-end alignment that slipped from a pothole or curb impact. Other causes include a tire that has lost air faster than its mate, a worn ball joint or tie rod end, a brake caliper sticking and dragging on one side, and on older vehicles, worn control-arm bushings that create off-center suspension geometry.
Yes for short distances, but expect uneven tire wear within 1,000 to 3,000 miles if not corrected. If the pull suddenly gets worse, increases at specific speeds, or pairs with vibration or pulling under braking, escalate to urgent. Those patterns suggest a worn tie rod end or stuck caliper that can fail badly. Otherwise, schedule an alignment within one to two weeks.
Pre-alignment measurement printout. If camber, caster, or toe is outside spec, alignment is the fix.
See wheel alignment pricesA 5 PSI or more difference between sides causes pulling that clears once the pressures are equalized.
See tire pressure adjustment + rotation pricesBouncing the front fender corners and watching how each side settles reveals a failing strut. A wheel that is hot to the touch after a drive points to a stuck caliper.
See suspension or brake inspection pricesMost symptoms have a few quick checks you can do in the driveway before paying a shop for diagnostic time. Spending five minutes here can save $80 to $150 in diagnostic fees if the answer is obvious.
Document what you find. Hand the notes to the shop when you check in. Technicians charge for time, not for guessing, so anything that narrows the diagnostic search saves you money.
Most shops follow a three-step diagnostic process for symptom-driven complaints: replicate, scan, and inspect. Replicate means the technician drives the vehicle until the symptom appears, confirming it is reproducible. Scan means hooking up an OBD-II scanner to pull stored fault codes and live sensor data. Inspect means putting the vehicle on a lift and checking the components most associated with the symptom and any codes found.
Diagnostic fees in Florida and Georgia run $80 to $150 for the basic process and up to $250 for more involved drivetrain or electrical issues. Many shops apply the diagnostic fee toward the cost of the repair if you authorize the work the same day. Ask whether the shop rolls the diagnostic into the repair before you commit.